Twill fabric, characterized by its distinct diagonal pattern, is a versatile and durable textile that has found its place in a wide range of applications.
With a history rooted in traditional weaving techniques, twill fabric has evolved to meet the demands of modern fashion and home furnishings.
Whether it’s the classic denim for jeans, the refined gabardine for suits, or the sturdy cotton twill for workwear, this fabric offers strength, wrinkle resistance, and an interesting texture.
From clothing to upholstery, twill fabric’s ability to withstand wear and hide stains has made it a popular choice. With various fiber options and finishes available, twill fabric continues to captivate with its enduring appeal.

What Is Twill Fabric
Twill fabric is a versatile type of textile weave that is characterized by its distinctive diagonal pattern on the surface of the fabric.
It is created by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads, shifting one thread to the right or left in each row.
This weaving technique results in a prominent diagonal line that runs along the length of the fabric.
One of the notable qualities of twill fabric is its durability. The diagonal structure of the weave gives it strength and resilience, making it resistant to tearing and fraying.
This makes twill fabric ideal for garments that require sturdiness and longevity, such as jeans, jackets, and suits. It can withstand frequent use and maintain its integrity over time.
Another advantage of twill fabric is its wrinkle resistance. The diagonal pattern helps to hide wrinkles and creases, making it a practical choice for clothing that needs to retain a smooth and neat appearance.
This characteristic makes twill fabric particularly suitable for travel garments and items that require minimal maintenance.
In addition to its durability and wrinkle resistance, twill fabric also has excellent draping properties. It flows and hangs gracefully, allowing it to conform to the shape of the wearer’s body or furniture.
This makes it a popular choice for upholstery projects and bedding, as it creates a sleek and elegant aesthetic.
Characteristics of Twill Fabric
Face/Back and Up/Down Orientation
Twill fabric often has a distinct face and back side. The face side typically displays the prominent diagonal pattern, while the back side may have a smoother and less noticeable texture.
Additionally, twill fabric has an up and down orientation, with the diagonal lines running along the length of the fabric.
Interesting Surface and Texture
The diagonal pattern created by the twill weave gives the fabric an interesting and visually appealing surface. This texture adds depth and dimension to the fabric, making it visually captivating and attractive.
Seldom Printed
Twill fabric is less commonly printed compared to other fabrics. This is primarily because the diagonal pattern of the weave already adds visual interest and texture to the fabric, reducing the need for additional patterns or designs.
However, solid colors or subtle patterns can still be applied to twill fabric through dyeing or printing techniques.
Soil is Less Evident
The diagonal lines and texture of twill fabric help to mask the appearance of dirt, stains, and soil.
This makes twill fabric an excellent choice for garments or items that are likely to encounter everyday dirt or spills, as they are less likely to show prominently on the fabric’s surface.
More Pliable
Twill fabric is known for its pliability and flexibility. The diagonal structure of the weave allows the fabric to have a certain amount of stretch and movement, making it more comfortable to wear and easier to drape or shape for various applications.
Better Wrinkle Recovery
Twill fabric has good wrinkle recovery properties, meaning it tends to bounce back and regain its smooth appearance after being subjected to wrinkles or folds.
This characteristic makes twill fabric a practical choice for garments that require a neat and well-groomed look, as it reduces the need for frequent ironing or pressing.
High Thread Counts Possible (More Durable)
Twill fabric can be woven with high thread counts, which refers to the number of threads per square inch of fabric.
Higher thread counts result in a denser and more tightly woven fabric, making it more durable and resistant to wear and tear. This durability makes twill fabric suitable for long-lasting and robust applications.
More Expensive
Due to its intricate weaving technique and desirable qualities, twill fabric is often more expensive compared to other types of fabric weaves.
The cost of production and the durability of the fabric contribute to its higher price point.
Types of Twill Fabric

Denim
Denim is a heavyweight twill fabric traditionally made from cotton. It is known for its durability and strength, making it a popular choice for jeans and workwear.
Denim typically has a blue indigo warp thread and a white or undyed weft thread, resulting in a distinctive diagonal pattern. It is often associated with casual and rugged clothing.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a twill fabric with a tight and smooth weave. It is commonly made from wool or synthetic fibers such as polyester. Gabardine has excellent wrinkle resistance, drapes well, and has a lustrous appearance. It is frequently used in tailored garments like suits, trousers, and skirts, as well as outerwear.
Chino
Chino is a twill fabric that originated from cotton twill in the mid-19th century. It is lightweight, comfortable, and often has a slight stretch.
Chino fabric is characterized by its soft, smooth finish and diagonal pattern. It is commonly used for casual pants, shorts, and casual jackets.
Damask
Damask is a type of twill fabric that features elaborate and reversible patterns woven into the fabric. It is typically made from silk, but can also be produced using other fibers like cotton or synthetic materials.
Damask fabric is known for its elegance and is often used in formal settings for table linens, upholstery, and drapery.
Herringbone
Herringbone twill fabric is characterized by its distinctive V-shaped pattern resembling the bones of a fish skeleton. It is woven with a repeating zigzag pattern created by the diagonal lines.
Herringbone fabric can be made from various materials, including wool, cotton, and synthetic fibers. It is commonly used in clothing, such as suits, jackets, and skirts, as well as for home decor items.
Drill
Drill is a sturdy twill fabric that is often made from cotton or a cotton-blend. It has a pronounced diagonal pattern and is known for its durability and resistance to tearing.
Drill fabric is commonly used for workwear, uniforms, and heavy-duty garments that require strength and durability.
Foulard
Foulard is a lightweight twill fabric typically made from silk or silk-like synthetic fibers. It is known for its smooth and shiny surface and often features intricate patterns or prints.
Foulard fabric is commonly used in scarves, neckties, and other accessories, as well as for lightweight clothing.
Houndstooth
Houndstooth twill fabric is recognizable for its distinctive checked pattern of broken or jagged checks. It is often woven from wool or wool blends and has a medium weight.
Houndstooth fabric is commonly used in tailored garments, such as jackets, skirts, and coats, as well as in home decor.
Serge
Serge is a twill fabric that is tightly woven and has a smooth finish. It is typically made from wool or wool blends, but can also be produced using other fibers.
Serge fabric is known for its durability and is often used for uniforms, military garments, and heavy-duty clothing.
Sharkskin
Sharkskin is a twill fabric that derives its name from its resemblance to the skin of a shark. It is usually made from a blend of wool and synthetic fibers, resulting in a smooth and lustrous appearance.
Sharkskin fabric is commonly used in tailored suits, trousers, and skirts, giving a sleek and sophisticated look.
Where Is Twill Fabric Produced

China
China holds a prominent position as a major producer of twill fabric. It is not only the largest producer of polyester, which is commonly used in twill fabric, but it is also a significant producer of cotton.
With its vast textile industry and manufacturing capabilities, China plays a crucial role in meeting the global demand for twill fabric.
India
India has a long history of textile production and is renowned for its diverse textile industry. The country has a significant presence in the production of twill fabric, with a focus on cotton twill.
Indian mills produce a wide range of twill fabrics, including denim and other variations used in apparel and home textiles.
United States
The United States has a notable presence in the production of twill fabric, particularly in denim. American-made denim is highly regarded worldwide, and the country has a rich heritage in denim manufacturing.
Several mills in the U.S. specialize in producing high-quality twill fabrics for various applications, including clothing and upholstery.
European Countries
Several European countries have a strong tradition of textile production, including the manufacturing of twill fabric.
Countries like Italy, France, and the United Kingdom are known for their expertise in weaving and finishing twill fabrics, particularly in the luxury and high-end fashion sectors.
European mills often prioritize quality and craftsmanship, producing premium twill fabrics for diverse markets.
Southeast Asian Countries
Countries in Southeast Asia, such as Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Indonesia, have emerged as significant players in the textile and apparel industry.
These countries have established manufacturing hubs and production facilities that cater to the global demand for twill fabric, providing cost-effective options for mass production.
Other Countries
Twill fabric production is not limited to the regions mentioned above. Many other countries contribute to the production of twill fabric, including Turkey, Pakistan, Brazil, Mexico, and Japan, among others.
These countries have well-established textile industries and produce a wide range of twill fabrics for various applications.
What Is Twill Fabric Made Of

Cotton
Cotton is a natural fiber that has been traditionally used to make twill fabric. It is known for its breathability, softness, and comfort.
Cotton twill fabric offers a natural and organic feel, making it a popular choice for casual clothing, upholstery, and home textiles.
Polyester
Polyester is a synthetic fiber that is widely used in the production of twill fabric. It offers excellent durability, wrinkle resistance, and color retention.
Polyester twill fabric is known for its strength, making it suitable for heavy-duty applications such as workwear, outdoor gear, and upholstery.
It is also often blended with other fibers like cotton to enhance the fabric’s performance and characteristics.
Wool
Wool is a natural fiber derived from sheep. It is known for its warmth, softness, and natural resilience. Wool twill fabric provides excellent insulation and is commonly used in outerwear, suits, and tailored garments. It offers a luxurious feel and has good draping properties.
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by silkworms. It is highly prized for its smoothness, luster, and luxurious feel.
Silk twill fabric is often used in high-end fashion and accessories, such as scarves, ties, and formalwear. It has a beautiful drape and a lightweight, flowing quality.
Rayon/Viscose
Rayon, also known as viscose, is a semi-synthetic fiber made from regenerated cellulose. It has a soft and smooth texture and can mimic the qualities of natural fibers like cotton, silk, or wool.
Rayon twill fabric offers a combination of comfort, breathability, and drape, making it suitable for a variety of clothing and home textile applications.
Blends
Twill fabric can also be made from blends of different fibers, combining their properties to achieve specific characteristics.
For example, cotton-polyester blends are common, offering a balance of comfort and durability. Blends of wool and synthetic fibers may provide improved wrinkle resistance and ease of care.
What Is Twill Fabric Used For

Apparel
Twill fabric is extensively used in the production of various types of clothing. It is particularly popular for casual and durable garments.
Denim, which is a type of twill fabric, is the go-to choice for jeans. Twill is also used for chinos, trousers, skirts, dresses, shirts, jackets, and outerwear.
Its durability, wrinkle resistance, and ability to hide stains make it suitable for everyday wear and workwear.
Home Textiles
Twill fabric is widely used in home furnishings and interior décor. It is employed for upholstery and furniture coverings, including sofas, chairs, and cushions.
Twill’s strength and durability make it suitable for high-traffic areas. Additionally, twill fabric is used for curtains, draperies, beddings, tablecloths, and napkins, adding texture and style to home interiors.
Bags and Accessories
Twill fabric is a popular choice for bags, backpacks, and luggage due to its sturdiness and resistance to wear and tear.
It provides durability and reliability to carry items in a variety of settings. Twill is also used for accessories like hats, caps, belts, and wallets, offering both style and functionality.
Industrial and Workwear
The durability and ruggedness of twill fabric make it a suitable option for industrial applications and workwear.
It is often used in uniforms for industries such as construction, manufacturing, and transportation, where durability and resistance to stains and abrasion are crucial.
Sports and Outdoor Gear
Twill fabric is employed in the production of sports and outdoor gear. Its strength, abrasion resistance, and ability to withstand rough use make it suitable for applications such as backpacks, tents, sleeping bags, and sportswear like hiking pants, jackets, and shorts.
Upholstery and Automotive
Twill fabric is a popular choice for upholstery in automotive interiors. It is used for seat covers, door panels, and headliners due to its durability, resistance to fading, and ease of maintenance. Twill upholstery provides a luxurious and comfortable feel to automotive interiors.
Military and Uniforms
Twill fabric is widely used in the production of military uniforms due to its strength, durability, and ability to camouflage stains.
Its diagonal lines help to break up the visual pattern and blend into the surroundings. Twill is also used for uniforms in other sectors, such as security personnel, police, and emergency services.
Is Twill Fabric Good for Summer
Lightweight Options
Twill fabric is available in different weights, including lighter versions that are suitable for summer wear. Fabrics with a lower ounce weight or made from finer yarns can offer better breathability and help keep you cool in hot weather.
Natural Fiber Blends
Twill fabric made from natural fibers like cotton or linen can be ideal for summer. These fibers are known for their breathability and ability to wick away moisture, allowing for better airflow and helping to keep you cool and comfortable.
Moisture Absorption
Twill fabric, particularly when made from natural fibers, can have good moisture-absorbing properties. This means that it can help absorb sweat and keep you feeling dry, which is especially beneficial in hot and humid conditions.
Durability
While durability is often associated with twill fabric, it can also be advantageous during summer activities.
Twill fabric is known for its strength and resistance to wear and tear, making it a reliable choice for outdoor activities or when you need a fabric that can withstand frequent washing or exposure to the sun.
Versatility
Twill fabric’s versatility extends to its ability to be dyed in various colors and patterns. This allows for a wide range of style options, including lighter and brighter colors that are often associated with summer fashion.
Casual and Relaxed Style
Twill fabric is frequently used for casual wear, making it suitable for summer outfits. It can be used to create comfortable and stylish pants, shorts, skirts, and dresses that are perfect for casual outings, beach days, or picnics.
Is Twill Fabric Stretchy
Twill fabric is generally not known for its inherent stretchiness. Traditional cotton twill fabric, in its pure form, tends to have minimal stretch or elasticity.
The weave structure of twill, with its diagonal pattern, contributes to its durability and resistance to stretching.
However, it is important to note that twill fabric can be blended with other fibers or treated with additives to introduce stretch and enhance comfort.
The addition of stretch fibers such as Lycra or Elastane/Spandex can significantly improve the stretchability of twill fabric.
When twill fabric is blended with these stretch fibers, it gains elasticity and becomes more flexible, allowing for increased freedom of movement.
The presence of Lycra or Spandex in twill blends provides a comfortable stretch that allows the fabric to conform to the body’s contours without restricting mobility.
Twill fabric with added stretch is commonly used in garments like pants, trousers, and jeans, where flexibility and comfort are desired.
The stretch feature adds ease of wear, better fit, and increased range of motion. It is particularly beneficial for activities that require bending, sitting, or dynamic movement.
How to Clean Twill Fabric

Read the Care Instructions
Before cleaning twill fabric, always check the care label attached to the garment. The care instructions provided by the manufacturer will offer specific guidance tailored to the fabric’s composition and any specific treatments it may have undergone.
Pre-Treat Stains
If you notice any stains on the twill fabric, it’s important to address them before washing. Pre-treat stains by gently dabbing the affected area with a stain remover or a mild detergent.
Follow the instructions provided by the stain remover product and allow it to penetrate the fabric for the recommended amount of time.
Machine Washing
For regular cleaning of twill fabric, it is generally recommended to use a cold and gentle machine wash cycle. Sort the twill garment with like-colored items to avoid color bleeding.
Turn the garment inside out to protect any prints, embroideries, or delicate surface details. Use a quality laundry liquid or powder detergent that is suitable for the fabric type. Avoid using bleach, as it can weaken the fabric and cause discoloration.
Washing Cycle
Select a gentle or delicate cycle on your washing machine to minimize any potential abrasion or stress on the fabric. Avoid overcrowding the machine to ensure adequate water circulation and prevent excessive wrinkling or creasing of the fabric.
Drying
After washing, it is recommended to dry twill fabric flat or hang it on a hanger to maintain its shape. Avoid wringing or twisting the fabric, as this can cause stretching and distortion.
If using a clothes dryer, opt for a low or delicate heat setting. Excessive heat can damage the fabric and result in shrinkage.
Ironing
If necessary, iron twill fabric while it is still slightly damp or use a steam iron. Set the iron to the appropriate temperature for the fabric and use a pressing cloth if needed to protect any prints or surface details.
Iron the fabric on the reverse side or with a clean cloth between the iron and the fabric to prevent direct contact.
Dry Cleaning
In some cases, twill garments may be labeled as “dry clean only.” If this is the case, it is advisable to follow the care instructions and take the garment to a professional dry cleaner who has experience handling twill fabrics.
How Does Twill Fabric Impact the Environment
Fiber Source
Twill fabric can be made from various fiber sources, including cotton, polyester, wool, and blends. The choice of fiber source can significantly influence the environmental impact.
For example, organic cotton, as mentioned, is grown without harmful pesticides and chemicals, reducing potential harm to the environment.
Similarly, natural fibers like linen or hemp have a lower environmental impact compared to synthetic fibers like polyester, which is derived from petroleum.
Farming Practices
For natural fibers like cotton or linen, the farming practices used in their cultivation can impact the environment.
Conventional cotton farming, for instance, often involves the use of pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers that can harm ecosystems, soil health, and water quality.
Organic farming practices, on the other hand, aim to minimize the use of harmful chemicals and promote sustainable land management.
Water and Energy Consumption
The production process of twill fabric involves water and energy consumption. Water is required for various stages such as fiber cultivation, dyeing, and finishing.
Optimal water management and the use of eco-friendly dyes and chemicals can reduce water pollution and waste.
Energy consumption during the manufacturing process can contribute to carbon emissions, and the use of renewable energy sources can help mitigate the environmental impact.
Chemical Usage
The use of chemicals in dyeing, printing, and finishing processes can have environmental consequences, such as water pollution and hazardous waste generation.
However, advancements in eco-friendly dyeing and finishing techniques, such as low-impact dyes and water-based inks, have been developed to minimize these impacts.
Choosing fabrics that adhere to eco-certifications or standards like Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) can ensure a more sustainable production process.
Waste and Disposal
Like any fabric, twill fabric contributes to waste generation at various stages, including pre-consumer waste from manufacturing and post-consumer waste from discarded garments.
Proper waste management practices, such as recycling or upcycling, can help reduce the environmental impact.
Additionally, considering the longevity and durability of twill fabric, as well as recycling options for synthetic fibers, can extend the lifespan of the fabric and reduce waste.
Longevity and Care
Twill fabric is known for its durability, which can contribute to its environmental impact in a positive way. Longer-lasting garments reduce the need for frequent replacements, thus reducing the overall demand for new fabric production.
Proper care and maintenance, such as following recommended washing instructions and repairing garments, can further extend their lifespan and minimize environmental impact.
Twill Fabric Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Durability: Twill fabric is known for its durability and strength. The diagonal weave structure makes it resistant to wear and tear, making it suitable for long-lasting garments and heavy-use items.
- Wrinkle Resistance: One of the notable advantages of cotton twill is its resistance to wrinkles and creases. This characteristic makes it an excellent choice for clothing items that need to maintain a neat appearance, such as pants, jackets, and uniforms.
- Stain Resistance: Twill fabric, especially in darker colors or with a tighter weave, tends to show less dirt and stains compared to other fabrics. This property makes it ideal for applications where cleanliness and stain resistance are important, such as workwear or upholstery.
- Versatility: Twill fabric comes in various weights and can be made from different fibers, offering versatility in its use. It can be used for a wide range of applications, including clothing, upholstery, home decor, and accessories.
- Interesting Surface Texture: The diagonal pattern created by the twill weave gives twill fabric a distinctive and interesting surface texture. This texture adds visual appeal and can enhance the overall aesthetics of garments or home textiles.
Cons:
- Heavier Weight: One downside of cotton twill fabric, particularly compared to lighter cotton fabrics, is its relatively heavier weight. This can make it less suitable for hot and humid climates or for individuals who prefer lightweight fabrics.
- Limited Stretch: Twill fabric, in its traditional form, does not possess inherent stretch or elasticity. While blends with stretch fibers can address this limitation, pure cotton twill may not offer the same level of stretch and flexibility as some other fabrics.
- Higher Cost: Cotton twill fabric is often priced higher compared to other types of cotton fabrics due to its durability, stain resistance, and desirable characteristics. The higher cost may be a consideration for individuals on a budget.
- Care Requirements: Twill fabric may require specific care instructions to maintain its quality and appearance. For example, it may recommend gentle washing, avoidance of certain chemicals, or careful ironing techniques. Adhering to these care requirements is essential to preserve the fabric’s integrity and longevity.
- Limited Breathability: Depending on the weight and fiber composition, twill fabric may have limited breathability compared to lighter, more open-weave fabrics. This may make it less suitable for warm and humid climates or for individuals who prioritize breathability in their clothing.
Comparison Table Between Twill and Other Fabrics
Property | Twill Fabric | Denim | Gabardine |
---|---|---|---|
Weave | Diagonal twill | Twill weave | Twill weave |
Durability | Very durable | Highly durable | Durable |
Wrinkle Resistance | Resistant | Resistant | Resistant |
Stain Resistance | Shows less dirt and stains | Shows less dirt and stains | Shows less dirt and stains |
Weight | Can be heavier | Medium weight | Medium weight |
Stretch | Limited stretch | Limited stretch | Limited stretch |
Breathability | Moderate breathability | Moderate breathability | Moderate breathability |
Usage | Pants, jackets, upholstery | Jeans, jackets, upholstery | Suits, pants, skirts |
Common Fiber | Cotton, polyester, blends | Cotton, polyester, blends | Wool, polyester, blends |
Price | Can be more expensive | Varies, generally affordable | Varies, generally affordable |
FAQs
Yes, twill fabric can be used for formal attire such as suits, blazers, and skirts. Its durability, draping ability, and wrinkle resistance make it a suitable choice for formal occasions.
Yes, twill fabric is commonly used for upholstery due to its durability and resistance to stains. It can be used for furniture coverings, cushions, and curtains.
Yes, twill fabric can be dyed in various colors and printed with patterns. While it is not as commonly printed as other fabrics, it can still be customized with designs and patterns.
Twill fabric can be suitable for outdoor use depending on its fiber composition and treatment. Cotton twill may not be as suitable for prolonged exposure to the elements, but twill fabrics made from synthetic fibers like polyester can offer better resistance to moisture and UV rays.
Cotton twill fabric may shrink to some extent after washing, especially if it has not been pre-shrunk. To minimize shrinkage, it is recommended to follow the care instructions and avoid using high heat during washing and drying.
Yes, twill fabric can be ironed, but it is important to follow the recommended ironing instructions for the specific fabric. Ironing on a medium heat setting and using steam can help remove any wrinkles or creases.
Twill fabric itself is not specifically known to cause skin irritation. However, individual sensitivities can vary, so it is advisable to consider personal comfort and potential allergies to specific fibers or finishes used in the fabric.
Yes, twill fabric can be used for a variety of crafts and DIY projects. Its strength and stability make it suitable for making bags, accessories, aprons, and even decorative items like pillow covers.
To Recap
Twill fabric stands as a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of textile weaving. Its diagonal pattern, durability, and resistance to wrinkles and stains have made it a favored choice in various industries.
From the timeless appeal of denim to the refined elegance of gabardine, twill fabric has proven its versatility and ability to adapt to different styles and needs.
While it may be slightly heavier and require specific care instructions, its benefits far outweigh the drawbacks.
As we continue to appreciate the longevity and functionality of twill fabric, its presence in fashion, upholstery, and everyday life will undoubtedly endure, offering both comfort and durability for years to come.
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